Suave Soave: The off-radar Italian white rebuilding its reputation

The volcanic soils of Soave are especially fertile, and the late-ripening Garganega grape that leads blends here is especially vigorous, making for very high yields unless they’re kept in close check. Lower-yield, fully ripened Garganega can be gorgeous, with distinctive almond and lemon richness and spice fleshing out its steely tension and natural acidity, which is sometimes further fleshed out with perfumed Trebbiano di Soave (Verdicchio) or Chardonnay. High-yield Garganega, however, can be aromatically neutral if crisp, fresh and accessibly priced. Since the demand for cheap Soave fell victim to fashion (hello, Pinot Grigio!), we see less on lists and shelves.

Soave hasn’t always been cheap co-op wine, however, and nor is all the co-op output a write-off. There have been interesting people working hard to rebuild the quality and the reputation of Soave, both in smaller family-run wineries and larger-scale co-ops. And because of its recent off-radar status, the good stuff offers excellent value, with wines that would fetch a much higher price in more fashionable appellations. You just need to know where to look.

The subzone of Soave Classico delineates the historic zone where the style originated. Focused in the hilly communes of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone, where volcanic basalt and limestone-rich soils ripen grapes to their full potential, it has a lower maximum yield than basic Soave, at 98hl/ha compared to 105hl/ha. The permitted yields in the newer, more quality-focused Soave Superior DOCG are lower again, at 70hl/ha, and hillier vineyards make for richer, riper wines.

Many producers forged ahead of the DO rules, restricting yields in pursuit of quality. Acclaimed winemaker Roberto Anselmi has operated outside the DOC since 2000, in objection to high yield limits; it also allows him to blend Sauvignon Blanc into his Garganega-led wines. Today’s wine of the week is an introduction to the family-run Pieropan, responsible for Soave’s first single vineyard wine. Look too for Gianni Tessari Soave (€20, Whelehans); Bertani Soave (€30, Barnhill Stores, Deveney’s) and the textured Cantine di Monteforte Montegrande Soave Superiore Classico (€17.95, independents), proving that co-ops can offer quality-focused value too.

Wines of the week

Pieropan Soave Classico 2023, Veneto, Italy, 12pc, €23.95 Organic Gargenega with 15pc Trebbiano, this is delicate and understated with spring flower perfume giving nuance to its lemon, sage and almond notes. A young and classic introduction to one of Soave Classico’s leading family-run wineries, run today by the sons of Nino Pieropan, who in 1971 released Soave’s first single vineyard wine, the complex Calvarino (2021 is on shelves now, €35.99). Worldwide Wines, Fallon & Byrne, Baggot Street Wines, Redmonds of Ranelagh, Clontarf Wines, Grapevine, 64 Wine, Whelehans Wines, theallotment.ie, wineonline.ie

Unearthed Custoza 2023, Veneto, Italy, 12pc, €8.99 Aldi carries a Castellore Soave (€6.99) that is crisp, simple and serviceable but this Garganega-based Custoza from closer to Lake Garda is well worth the extra euro. Herbal with apple and fennel aromas, it has broad weight on the peachy palate with 6 g/l residual sugar rounding things out before a crisp, fish-friendly finish. Aldi

Roberto Anselmi Capitel Croce 2021, Bianco Veneto IGT, Italy, 12.5pc, €27.50 Soft and silky with ginger-spiced peach, mandarin and almond notes, this is 100pc Garganega from Monteforte d’Alpone, where south-facing hilltop vineyards in limestone-rich soils ensure ripeness. Sauvignon Blanc fans would love Anselmi’s complex Capitel Foscarino (€27.50). Nolan’s Supermarket, Redmonds of Ranelagh

Pasqua Mucchietto Soave DOC 2022, Veneto, Italy, 12.5pc, €16.95 From a reliable producer, featuring 100pc organic Garganega with lots of ripe flavours. Think honeyed lemon, honeydew melon and toasted almond character, and voluptuous body with mouthwatering acidity. Perfect with oily fish. Or try the more herbal and pretty Rizzardi Ferra Soave (€20.45). O’Briens Wine; obrienswine.ie

Balestri Valda Soave Classico DOC 2022, Veneto, Italy, 12.5pc, €17.50 A punchy, medium-bodied blend of organic Gargenega and Trebbiano from the volcanic eastern side of the subzone, balancing concentrated stone fruits and velvety mouthfeel with chiselled but well-integrated acidity, finishing with a saline minerality. Great with shellfish. Wines Direct Athlone & Mullingar; winesdirect.ie